Just a forewarning, this is going to be a LONG entry.
This morning my luck ran out and I woke up sick. Actually, I woke up in the middle of the night with a sore throat and had extreme difficulty swallowing. I was told when I arrived here that it was inevitable that I would get sick because so many volunteers get sick playing with their children at placement. Sabrina has been sick lately and that's probably where I developed this from. I pulled myself out of bed around 8ish and ate some breakfast. I felt like crap so I went back to bed, but couldn't sleep. I changed my clothes and walked the mile or so trek to Rondebosch to buy throat lozenges, kleenex, and vics vapor rub from the chemist at the pharmacy. In addition to my feeling lousy, there was a slight drizzle of rain I had to walk through. While in Rondebosch I found an internet cafe to print off my ticket for Robben Island. I trudged back through the mist home and then laid down again.
Lunch was amazing. Sabrina was teaching the staff how to cook chicken parmesan. I think it was the first meal where I had a clean plate and didn't throw away food. The chicken was breaded and moist with good spaghetti sauce, rather than the typical sauce being made here. Everyone who was in the house ate the chicken. Simone seemed to have mixed feelings, everyone was so happy to have food we liked/recognized and though she was happy we liked it, I think she was a little disappointed to realize that people ate the African food, but we didn't really desire it. We also had garlic bread with the meal and that was gone quickly as well.
Right after lunch I said goodbye to some of the volunteers leaving in the afternoon and took a cab to the waterfront to go to Robben Island. I arrived at the Nelson Mandela Gateway a little early so I perused the gift shop and bought a shirt that says “Robben Island Triathlon” and below it a 3 picture comic that says “Dig, Dash, Dive”. I thought it was so cool. I also bought a book of the history of the island, from its origins of a leper colony to a maximum security prison. The pictures were beautiful and the little bit I read was interesting. I meandered downstairs and half an hour later I went through a metal detector and was the third person to board the boat. The boat was huge, a three story, white catamaran that held about 400 people. I went to the top deck and sat on the starboard side. As we left the VA waterfront, the winds were calm, but after we left the harbour the winds picked up and the Atlantic Ocean was full of deep swells. I stood up and leaned on the railing admiring the scenery. I tried to take pictures, but none can recreate the feeling of standing on the boat and looking out at the ships coming into the harbour full of shipping crates, the Regent cruise ship in the harbour, the partly cloudy blue sky and the deep blue waters of the Atlantic. I loved standing on top of the boat admiring Table Mountain from a distance with its tablecloth covering the top (a natural phenomenon with clouds that cover the top of the mountain). The air did not smell salty so if I closed my eyes I felt like I was on a boat back home and felt connected to my family because they would have loved the boat ride as well.
The ferry ride was half an hour long and before I knew it, I disembarked at Murray Harbour on Robben Island. I walked over to the buses and climbed on one. We drove about 3 minutes to the maximum security prison there and began our tour. For those who don't know, Nelson Mandela spent 18 years of his 27 year sentence as a political prisoner at this prison. Most of the prisoners at the maximum security prison were members of the ANC or the PAC which were two groups who were opposed to the apartheid in South Africa. Criminals were also sentence to the island, but they were in the medium security prison about 10km away.
Our tour of the prison was conducted by ex-prisoner who spent 9 years at the prison in the communal cells in the from 1980-1989. Until 1980 prisoners slept on mats on the floor, but in 1980 bunk beds were introduced to the prisoners. Conditions weren't wonderful, but of course, it was a prison, so I actually think after the introduction of beds, there was nothing appalling about the prison physically. Communal cells held about 40 people with an attached bathroom. The bathroom had a few dirty sinks, two toilets, and two showers. According to our guide, salt water comes out of the shower heads, which means they could not use soap, instead they had to use shampoo that the guards only gave you after your first shower and you realized salt water doesn't wash off the soap.
Most of the prison wings (blocks C, D,E, F) were the communal cells. But some prisoners, like Mandela, were in Block B, which means they lived in isolation from each other and the rest of the prison. They lived in their own cells which were only about 5ftx10ft with two windows, one to the outside and one to the inside. They had bar doors and then the prison guards also had wooden doors that they could close to isolate you even more. I visited the row in which Mandela lived on as well as looking into the cell in which he spent 18 years of his life. These conditions were shocking. He did not have a bed, instead he slept on two mats on the floor and had a metal pot with a lid to relieve himself in. They were allowed 1 hour of exercise per day in a separate yard than the rest of the prisoners. Additionally, Monday-Friday the prisoners were required to work for 8-10 hours a day in the lime quarry. Lime, as I found out, is very reflective and the built up of lime dust in the eyes of the prisoners has led most of the workers of the quarry to have eye surgeries to remove the lime and repair tear ducts. Even so, Mandela must wear sunglasses often because his eyes have been damaged so much from the lime. There was another stone quarry that the prisoners worked in when other stone other than lime was required.
After the prison tour we took a bus tour of the island where they showed the rest of the island, the leper graveyard, the village where about 200 people live permanently, the churches built by different settlers, and the shipwrecks. We saw the quarries where prisoners worked and a large number of animals that had been introduced by settlers. The ferry was ready for us when we dropped off at the harbour and I went back to the top deck, however the wind had severely picked up and after 15 minutes I couldn't stand the top deck so I went back to the first deck and sat inside. I arrived back at the gateway around 6:30. I figured since I paid for cab ride to the waterfront by myself, I'm going to enjoy the waterfront a bit. I went shopping for some gifts for friends and family and found several shirts and a few things for other people. I only a few things left to buy now, which is good. I grabbed some dinner at Subway, which is not the same as in the US. I ordered a BMT, my usual sandwich and I have no idea what meats were put on it, it was labeled salami, pepperoni, and beef, but definitely none of those were on it. I think I tasted bologna. I ate half a six inch sub and half of a very dry cookie before calling it quits. It was enough to keep me full for awhile. The combo meal was much cheaper here, only cost about $3.60 instead of $5. It was approaching 8pm, so I figured it was time to head home, I was tired, and I was out alone. I was smart about it of course, always sticking with people and never straying far by myself. I called a taxi and sat by the security staff at the taxi circle in the light. When I was in the cab home Sabrina called because some people started to realize I was out alone and wanted to make sure I was okay. I appreciated the call, but I would rather have had people with me, but no one bought their tickets to Robben Island in time before the tour was booked so I had to go alone.
I came home and met one of the new volunteers, Angelique who is from West Bloomfield, MI. She's in her early 40s with two children. She's only here for 3 weeks, but it is still nice to have someone from home to talk to. She actually works in Troy, so she knows about Somerset Mall, and other places nearby. I showered after talking with her for a few minutes and then fell asleep quickly since I started to feel sick again. I slathered my nose and throat with vics, took some African version of Benedryl and I was out all night.
Labels: reflection, side trip